A day trip or A two day itinerary to Naoshima

from from Tokyo, Osaka or Hiroshima

The famous yellow pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama on the Naoshima island

Naoshima is the island in the middle of nowhere that holds extraordinary art. Reachable only by ferry, this small island has so much introspective art to offer. Not only is it an art paradise, it is also surrounded by beautiful little countryside villages that offer the untouched quiet that makes Japan stand out for me.

I stayed in one such village called Hayashima where I had one of the sweetest travel moments. Read about that story here: https://deardhuniya.substack.com/p/the-train-station-with-no-station?r=21dnit&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web

Now let’s get into everything you need to know if you want to travel to Naoshima.

Before you book anything:

Chichu Art Museum comes first. It is entirely advance-reservation, timed-entry only. Online tickets go on sale at 10:00 a.m. The museum is open 10:00–5:00, with last admission at 4:00. Book it before your trains.
Avoid Mondays. The art facilities on Naoshima are generally closed on Mondays, and they are open on national holidays but closed the following day.
Reservations beyond Chichu. Two Art House Project venues, Minamidera and Kinza, part of Benesse Art Site Naoshima, also need a timed reservation. Bookings are handled through the official Benesse Art Site Naoshima site, so check there for the current process.
Closures coming up. The Naoshima New Museum of Art closes from 24 November to 12 December 2026, and Chichu closes for maintenance from 12 January to 19 March 2027.

Getting to Naoshima

Every route funnels through Okayama → Uno → ferry.

From	To Okayama	Then
Tokyo	Shinkansen, about 3 hours 15 minutes	Local train and ferry (below)
Osaka	Shinkansen, about 45 minutes	Same
Hiroshima	Shinkansen, about 35 minutes	Same

From Okayama:

JR Uno Line to Uno Station. The ordinary fare is about ¥590 each way, and the ferry is not included in it. The ride takes about 50 minutes.
Walk to Uno Port. This takes about five minutes.
Take the ferry. The crossing to Miyanoura takes about 20 minutes, and the current standard adult fare is ¥370. Fares can change, so check before you travel.
Choose your port. Passenger boats also run from Uno directly to Honmura, the Art House Project district. That saves you a bus transfer if you want to start there.

Map of the Naoshima island showing the location of the ports and museums

You could also come via Takamatsu. The ferry from Takamatsu to Miyanoura takes about 50 minutes and costs ¥680.

If you want a bag-free day, the tourist association recommends leaving heavy luggage near Miyanoura Port before sightseeing.

Itinerary A: Two days on Naoshima, with an optional overnight

Not staying overnight? See Itinerary B for a one-day plan.

Day 1: Chichu and the south side

Take an early train from Okayama so you reach the island by about 9:00. As you arrive at Miyanoura Port, look for Yayoi Kusama’s red pumpkin.
Book your Chichu slot for the morning or early afternoon, when the light changes inside the building. This is the museum that brought me to tears, with Monet, Turrell, and De Maria.
The free Benesse shuttle connects the museum areas and the Tsutsujiso bus stop.
Lunch: The Chichu Art Museum has a beautiful little café where you can grab lunch, enjoy the view, and ponder the art you just experienced.
Afternoon: Visit the Naoshima New Museum of Art, or the Lee Ufan Museum if you prefer something quieter.
Evening: Sunset by the yellow pumpkin. This is the moment for the overnight stay: you can stay on after the day-trippers’ last boats leave, and the island goes still. Stay at Benesse House or a small guesthouse, and book early.

Day 2: The Art House Projects

Honmura: Walk the Art House Project, Minamidera and Kinza, where old village houses have become installations. Reserve your tickets in advance.
Lunch: Eat in Honmura village before heading to Benesse House Museum.
The town bus also runs between Miyanoura and Honmura, stopping at the major art sites.
Spend the afternoon at Benesse House Museum, then take the evening ferry back to Uno.

Ferry times are tight at day’s end. Check the Shikoku Kisen timetable for the last ferry on your date, and plan to be at the port early.

Japan’s Seto inland sea from on of the beaches on Naoshima island.

Itinerary B: Naoshima day trip plus Okayama or a village

Day 1: Full day on Naoshima

Start with the Chichu Museum slot, add time to visit Yayoi Kusama’s yellow pumpkin and one other museum. Each museum on Naoshima has a lot to offer and there are a lot of free art installations along the way. Walking around is a good idea to appreciate the artwork and take in the beauty of the island at your own pace.

I did a full day on Naoshima island. I started the day at the Chichu Art Museum, enjoyed lunch at the museum café with the beautiful view, pondered around the island visiting the two pumpkin installations (the red one at Miyanoura Port and the yellow one near Benesse) and other art sculptures along the way. I spent my late afternoon at the Lee Ufan Museum and made my way to the ferry port to catch the last ferry back to Uno Port.

Day 2, Option 1: Okayama city

Spend a slow day with the Okayama castle and Korakuen Garden, and a walk through the old town. Ask locals for a recommendation of where to eat, or grab some delicacies from a local bakery or konbini and find a bench in the garden to eat your lunch.

Day 2, Option 2: Stay in a local village

Around Okayama, there are multiple small towns or villages that you can stay at to unwind from the neon lights you may have grown tired of in Tokyo and Osaka. Some options include:

Hayashima, a small agricultural village only a short local train ride from Okayama.
Ushimado, a seaside town,
Fukiya, a historic copper-mining village in the hills

Don’t visit these towns with a list of things to do. Simply go there to observe the local life, enjoy quiet downtime and the natural ambience of countryside Japan, eat at a small hole-in-the-wall restaurant run by a grandma or grandpa. Rent a bicycle and bike around the countless rice fields or farms.

During my six months of travel in Japan, I did this more times than I can count. These slow, quiet days are what made me fall in love with Japan.

Practical tips

Best days: Tuesday through Saturday. Chichu Art Museum is closed on Mondays.
Pre-booking reminders: Book your tickets to the Chichu Art Museum ahead of time. Due to limited accommodation options on the island, I highly recommend booking a guesthouse on the island ahead of time.
What to wear: You will do some active walking, so wear suitable shoes. Bring a windbreaker or shawl for the ferry ride and for the evening island breeze. If you’re visiting in summer, make sure you pack sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses.