Lantern Festival, Street food, Tailored clothes and Basket Boat Rides….
Planning your next trip to Vietnam? Don’t miss Hoi An.
Hoi An is the rare tourist town that rewards slowing down. Three days is enough to eat your way through the Old Town, watch the lanterns come on at dusk, get clothes and shoes made, glide through a coconut forest in a basket boat, and cycle through rice paddies. \
Quick Tip: Order your clothes and leather goods on Day 1, so they are ready before you leave.
I ate the banh mi in Hoi An that Anthony Bourdain once called “symphony in a sandwich” It turned into one of the most honest pieces I’ve written: Bourdain Had Everything. It Wasn’t Enough. Read the full story here: https://deardhuniya.substack.com/p/banh-mis-and-bourdain?r=21dnit&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web
Quick facts before you go
- Best time to visit: February to August is generally drier and easier for cycling and boat rides. Lantern nights happen year-round on the 14th night of every lunar month. Check the exact day for the month before you plan your trip.
- Old Town ticket: Walking the streets is free, but the heritage sites need a combined ticket. It costs 120,000 VND (about $4.50) for international visitors and covers five sites, such as old houses, assembly halls, museums and the Japanese Covered Bridge.
- Where to stay: Most hotels sit outside the pedestrian-only Old Town, so you’ll arrive by Grab, taxi or bicycle. Staying just across the river keeps you close but calm, especially on festival nights.
- Getting there: Hoi An has no airport or train station. Fly into Da Nang and take a taxi or Grab, roughly 30 minutes. You can also book shared van rides through your accommodation or websites like 12goAsia.
Day 1: Old Town, markets and getting measured
Morning: Central Market breakfast
Start at Hoi An Central Market by the river. Eat first, browse second so you can have all the energy through the colorful markets. Look for stalls serving cao lầu (thick noodles with pork, herbs and greens) and mì Quảng (turmeric noodles with just a little broth). They both provide a delicious and filling breakfast to start your day.
Don’t forget to try their salter coffee or coconut coffee. I promise you, you’ll keep coming back for more.
Late morning: Old Town walk
Cross the Japanese Covered Bridge, then visit one heritage house and one assembly hall. You don’t need to use all five ticket entries in a single day.
Afternoon: order your custom clothes and leather goods
Hoi An has hundreds of tailors, and most can turn out a shirt, dress or trousers in 24-48 hours, with fittings in between. Order today, fit tomorrow, collect on Day 3.
- Bring photos of what you want, or a garment you love to copy.
- Choose fabric carefully. Linen, cotton and silk suit the heat.
- Agree on the price, fabric and pickup time in writing before you pay a deposit.
- Custom shoes, sandals and bags are also typically done in 24-48 hours. Bring a picture, get your feet traced, and confirm the type of leather.
Evening: lanterns and the Bourdain banh mi
Walk the Old Town as the lanterns come on one by one. Then queue for a banh mi at Bánh Mì Phượng, the shop where Bourdain famously called the “sandwich in a symphony”. The menu runs to around 15 varieties. I ordered the bánh mì thập cẩm, a mixed sandwich with pork, house-made pâté, caramelised onions and their homemade sauce, for 35,000 VND (about $1.50) in February 2024. Prices will have risen since. Either eat at the restaurant if you can find a table or if you’re like me and don’t want to stand in the line for too long, get it to go (much faster) and take it to a bench and enjoy it slowly.
Here is my experience with the famous Banh Mi, https://deardhuniya.substack.com/p/banh-mis-and-bourdain?r=21dnit&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web
Day 2: Cycling the rice fields and Tra Que
Morning: Bike through the rice paddies
Rent a bike (many hotels include one) and head out early, before the heat. Ride toward the Tra Que vegetable village and the paddies on the edge of town. The route is flat and beginner-friendly, with water buffalo and farmers working the fields.
Tra Que village
This herb and vegetable village supplies many of the town’s restaurants. Stop for a farm walk or cooking class, or simply order a fresh, herb-heavy lunch.
Lunch
Try bánh xèo (crispy savoury pancakes) and cơm gà, Hoi An’s shredded-chicken rice. The bánh xèo is absolutely delicious!
Afternoon: first fitting
Return to your tailor and cobbler. Try everything on, and note every change clearly. Ask for adjustments to be done by Day 3.
Late afternoon and evening: coffee, then dinner
Coffee is a reason to visit on its own. Try a coconut coffee or cà phê muối (salted coffee). Hoi An Roastery, Faifo Coffee and Reaching Out Teahouse are all worth a stop. For dinner, try hoành thánh chiên (fried wontons) and finish with a chè, a sweet dessert soup.
Day 3: Basket boats, artisans and pickup
Morning: Cam Thanh basket boat ride
Go early, before tour groups arrive. Round bamboo basket boats (thúng chai) glide through the Bay Mau coconut forest in Cam Thanh village. Local sources put the price at roughly 200,000-300,000 VND per boat, which usually includes the entrance fee and excludes tipping. Packaged tours run around $13 per adult with hotel pickup. Confirm what’s included before you book.
An honest note: the spinning-boat show is super fun, but a little touristy. I still enjoyed my ride very much despite all the other people. Agree on the price before boarding, and go for the quiet stretches through the palms.
Late morning: artisanal shopping
Hoi An is known for silk lanterns, ceramics, woodcarving and embroidery. Choose fair-trade shops and workshops over generic souvenir stalls, such as Reaching Out Arts & Crafts, and ask makers about materials and process. If you have time, the pottery village of Thanh Ha and the carpentry village of Kim Bong are both a short ride from town. Wooden and ceramic pieces travel well, and silk lanterns fold flat.
Afternoon: final fittings and pickup
Collect your clothes and leather goods. Check every seam, zip and strap in the fitting room before you pay.
Evening: farewell dinner by the river
Book a riverside table, order what you loved most, and end with one last coffee.
The Hoi An Lantern Festival: dates and tips
The lantern festival (Đêm Rằm Phố Cổ, or Old Quarter Full-Moon Night) takes place on the 14th night of every lunar month, when the Old Town swaps electric lights for silk lanterns. Floating paper lanterns drift down the Hoai River, and the whole ancient town looks like a painting.
Walking around during the festival is free.
Some Useful Tips for the Lantern Festival:
- Arrive before sunset and buy your Old Town ticket early. Heritage sites close around 5:30-6:00 pm.
- River sampan rides are regulated at 150,000 VND for 1-3 passengers and 200,000 VND for 4-5 passengers, for roughly 20 minutes.
- Carry small bills. Most vendors don’t take cards on festival nights.
- Can’t make a full-moon date? Silk lanterns still glow across the Old Town most evenings.
What to eat and drink in Hoi An
- Cao lầu: thick noodles with pork, herbs and greens
- Mì Quảng: turmeric noodles with minimal broth
- Bánh mì: the town’s famous baguette sandwich
- Bánh bao bánh vạc (white rose dumplings): delicate shrimp dumplings
- Cơm gà: Hoi An chicken rice
- Bánh xèo: crispy savoury pancakes
- Hoành thánh chiên: fried wontons
- Coconut coffee and salted coffee
FAQ: 3 days in Hoi An
How many days do you need in Hoi An?
Three days covers the Old Town, food, custom tailoring, the coconut forest and a cycling loop without rushing.
How long does custom tailoring take in Hoi An?
Most tailors deliver in 24-48 hours, with at least one fitting. Order on your first day if you’re staying only for 3 days.
Is the Hoi An Lantern Festival free?
Yes. Walking the Old Town during the festival is free. You pay for the Old Town ticket if you want heritage sites, and for boat rides and floating lanterns.
Is the basket boat ride worth it?
It’s fun and unusual, but touristy. Go early and agree on the price first.
